Julien Fournié showcased his haute couture collection for the Spring/Summer 2024 season, titled « First Vamps, » in a presentation that exuded fantasy and confidence. Each designed piece exuded a charm, highlighting the alluring strength of women and infusing a sense of sensuality and intrigue into every outfit presented on the catwalk. The collection started with a confident pitch for Parisian elegance with luxurious fabrics and flawless finishes. Fournié partnered with plumassier Julien Vermeulen on a new black feather tweed that set the stage for a lineup that melded freedom and boldness. If the mid-calf sheath, with its bustier top and huge Victorian sleeves in shaded or embroidered transparency, seemed a touch familiar, Fournié would likely argue that he was merely catering to his customer, who surely also enjoys an invitation to dinner.
Throughout the show, Fournié toyed with asymmetries and textile sculptures, adding elements such as Prince-of-Wales, denim, and panther-printed leather to revisit traditional women’s wear. Between anatomical cut-outs and futuristic cut-outs, his pieces were always a playful and refined message to encourage each woman to unveil herself with confidence. Embroidery was the star, as Fournié showed its adaptability in different ages and styles. It was featured in a Roulandesque wool lace and crepe cocktail dress and scalloped cape worn by an impressive array of models from 20 to 60, as well as on the seven-month pregnant muse Michaela Tomanova in a jersey evening sheath with metal and iridescent embroidered harness on the shoulders, which drove home the point of his inclusive and boundary-pushing style.
This collection’s sensuality was amplified by the accessories, including embroidered handbags, dizzying high-heeled shoes, and lace parasols. Fournié therefore introduced alluring and sophisticated elements into each accessory to encourage women to follow their hearts. Fournié thus stressed that clothes can also be identity assertions in the midst of climate change or any other anxiety-provoking situation, as seen in his grand display of bridal dresses. Julien Fournié’s spring/summer collection gave us an absorbing getaway from a world craving happiness, dreams, and lightness, reminding us about fashion’s inherent magic of wanting, which is love.
cover photo credit: Julien Fournié
