Paris Haute Couture Week is always a special moment, a bubble where the most exquisite craftsmanship meets the wildest imagination. But let’s be honest, some shows resonate more than others. Franck Sorbier’s, presented this January 29th for Spring/Summer 2025, was definitely one of those. With his collection titled « Symphonie Barbare » (Barbarian Symphony), the designer offered us much more than just a fashion show: a captivating dive into contrasts, a reflection on strength, heritage, and, perhaps surprisingly, on peace.
A Title That Sets the Tone
« Symphonie Barbare. » Just those two words clash and intrigue. How do you marry the purest harmony with the most primal power? That’s Sorbier all over: finding inspiration where you least expect it. He delved into the image of the « barbarian » from Antiquity, that outsider, that « other. » But not to glorify violence, no. Rather, to detect a raw creative force, a beauty born on the fringes of established codes. After all, weren’t the greatest innovators, those composers who shook up the classics, once called « barbarians » in their time? Sorbier loves this play with paradoxes, and it infused the entire collection.
When Opposites Attract on the Runway
And it showed! On the runway, this tension was palpable. Silhouettes reminiscent of armor, protective, almost warrior-like, but crafted from materials of incredible delicacy. A rigid organza breastplate defied the airy fluidity of black silk chiffon. Sumptuous jacquards seemed torn by time, like rediscovered ancient parchments. The organic crossed paths with metal. Sorbier doesn’t hesitate to « brutalize » his fabrics – he crumples, tears, recomposes them – but it’s a controlled violence, a sort of reverse caress that gives birth to a unique, fierce beauty. His dresses aren’t there to please demurely; they have presence, they « command » attention.
More Than Fabric: A Soul, A Message
But reducing « Symphonie Barbare » to a technical feat would be missing the point. This collection has a soul. It first vibrates with a personal and touching tribute to Madame Hélène Tarnowska, a « Lady of Heart » dear to the creator. Then, it opens up to the world, with a vibrant nod to the courage of the women of the « Women Wage Peace » movement, uniting Israelis and Palestinians in a shared drive for reconciliation. Sorbier calls them his « Guerrières de la Paix » (Warriors of Peace). A magnificent and unexpected link between the « barbarian » strength of the theme and the determination needed to build peace. Because yes, amidst the turmoil and the displayed power, the final message is luminous: it is peace that must ultimately prevail.
Craftsmanship: The Beating Heart of Maison Sorbier
All of this rests on an unwavering foundation: the love of fine workmanship, of craftsmanship. Franck Sorbier isn’t just another name on the calendar. He’s a « Grand Couturier, » certainly, but also the only « Maître d’Art » (Master of Art) in fashion, a title that speaks volumes. At his house, each piece is a celebration of the handmade, a challenge thrown down to fast fashion and standardization. You can feel the passion in his mastery of techniques, like the famous « Compression » he developed, in his virtuoso lacework, his way of sculpting fabric. For Sorbier, craftsmanship is non-negotiable; it’s the very essence of Couture. He says it himself: a garment made entirely by machine, that would be the real « act of barbarism. »
What We’ll Remember
With « Symphonie Barbare, » Franck Sorbier offers us much more than a collection. He reminds us that haute couture, when inhabited by vision and soul, is a powerful language. A language capable of weaving together history and current events, strength and fragility, the intimate and the universal. It’s a memorable work, where impeccable technique serves profound thought and palpable emotion. And it is, once again, dazzling proof of the unique and precious voice of this creator-poet in the sometimes deafening concert of fashion.
Crédit photo: FHCM.
