Imagine: the curtain rises at the Théâtre Mogador, not for a musical, but for an extraordinary Haute Couture show. On Tuesday, January 28, 2025, Julien Fournié invited us to his « First Circus, » a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that celebrated much more than fashion. It was a personal event, marking the designer’s 50th birthday and the 16th anniversary of his house.
And what a show! Fournié, finally feeling « completely free, » opened the doors to his deepest imagination.
From Childhood Dreams to Parisian Runways
The inspiration for « First Circus »? It’s touching, almost secret. Fournié tells us about his childhood, where his room was a refuge populated by « fantastic figures » – superheroes, manga heroines, princesses – his « protective talismans » against a sometimes difficult outside world. Add a pinch of 90s pop culture to that, and you get the raw material for this phantasmagorical circus. Because for Fournié, fashion isn’t just a matter of fabric and cut: « I don’t design […] fashion pieces, I create characters, » he confides.
A Parade of Unforgettable Characters
And what characters! On the Mogador stage, we saw an incredible troupe parade: a goddess from the future in a cyborg trench coat, a White Rabbit, « luxury dealer » version, bombarding you with glitter, a Ringmaster impressive in his authority, a Joker as if « exploded » with creative madness, a melancholic clowness escaped from an old black and white film, a princess who might have stepped through the looking glass to explore other realities, and even a « burlesque spectre, » both gothic and glamorous in a checked sheath dress. Not forgetting the wild audacity of a giant pink tutu worn with a helmet and knee pads, hurtling down the stage in a burst of pure joy.
Between Exceptional Know-How and a Touch of the Future
Each creation was a demonstration of meticulous Haute Couture craftsmanship. We admired the precise cuts meeting fluid silhouettes, the sculptural corsets, the skillful draping, and the sparkling embroideries. But Fournié doesn’t only look to the past. He blends this ancestral know-how with his passion for rare vintage fabrics and a resolutely modern approach, using 3D design in partnership with Dassault Systèmes to visualize his creations before even cutting the first piece of fabric.
More than a Show, a Performance
The choice of the Théâtre Mogador was not insignificant. Fournié wanted to blur the lines between fashion and performance, incorporating dancers, energetic staging, and models with expressive gestures to immerse us in his universe. It was an invitation to share his « joy of dreaming, drawing, sewing, and performing. »
The Fournié Manifesto
Ultimately, « First Circus » is much more than a collection. It’s a cry from the heart: « Long live independent and free Haute Couture! ». It’s a thumbing of the nose at ephemeral trends (« Down with trends! »). It’s proof that Haute Couture, in the hands of a designer like Julien Fournié, can be a formidable tool for personal expression, a way to transform his most intimate dreams into « legendary » pieces, ready to enter history. A total spectacle, both deeply personal and magnificently universal.
Crédit photo: FHCM.
