The Paris haute couture show by Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall-Winter 2024–2025 show glowed with artistic flair and surreal surprises. Despite technological obstacles, Nicolas Di Felice, the new Gaultier leader, drew attention, demonstrating that new blood can revive a storied tradition. Di Felice, who is renowned for redefining Courrèges with a daring blend of futuristic and sensual, imbued Gaultier’s well-known stage with a dynamic, youthful energy. His collection was a journey through fashion, evoking a coming-of-age story in Paris that ranged from conservative to radical. As the presentation began, models in high-necked dresses and long-sleeved jackets exuded a sense of arrival and reserve. Layers slipped away, shoulders revealed, and hemlines raised as the night progressed, culminating in a spectacular conclusion of clothing that was both openly displayed and disguised. This literal and metaphorical transition from darkness to light captured the essence of Gaultier’s celebration of individuality.
With a nod to Gaultier’s archives, the collection’s core motif was the creative use of the fundamental hook-and-eye closure. Di Felice reimagined these fastenings as a design feature that allowed the clothing to morph and grow throughout the performance. The fasteners provided adjustable amounts of exposure, emphasizing a concept of elasticity and metamorphosis that ranged from sophisticated dresses to chainmail-inspired creations. Nicolas Di Felice’s presentation to the Gaultier headquarters highlighted his ability to blend innovation with legacy. His newfound understanding and appreciation for the house’s storied history left an indelible mark, cementing his place as a rising star in the haute couture world. The collection illustrated how creative ideas can breathe new life into a classic, ensuring that Gaultier’s essence remains relevant.
