Thom Browne’s latest collection, which united the spirit of athleticism with the perfection of haute couture, stood out as a spectacular prelude to the 2018 Olympics during Paris Couture Week. Browne, who is well-known for his interest in norms and ability to expertly disrupt them, typically bases his collections on traditional, restrictive settings. This season, as Paris prepares for the Olympics, Browne expertly merged the worlds of sports and the tedious art of fashion. Browne’s second couture show opened with a theatrical tableau including models in white blazers, sunglasses, and kilts connected by a tug-of-war rope. Tennis legend Serena Williams was seated in the front row. This beautiful photograph set the tone for a collection that stressed cream and other neutral hues. Browne’s ability to transform the ordinary into the exceptional was underlined by the couture stage’s creative use of muslin, a fabric often used for drawing. Visitors were given smocks that resembled lab coats made of the same material in order to better grasp the designer’s concept. With elaborate 3-D flower arrangements and gilded headpieces, Browne’s couture exploration reached new heights. Though it deviated significantly from the popular tennis style of the year, the sports element was still evident. Browne’s works, which were reminiscent of the Bodies show in the early 2000s, featured his signature preppy piping and an amazing musculature embroidered luxuriously onto a high-necked Victorian gown. The footwear blended athletic and avant-garde motifs with gilded, deconstructed versions of classic cleats.
The Olympics’ ancient Greek roots inspired elements such as discus throwers and laurel wreaths, while the finale included bronze, silver, and gold outfits that echoed the medal ceremony. These last items, fully embroidered coats, celebrated both athletic strength and the artisanal mastery of couture craftsmanship. Garments adorned with gold bullion embroidery of athletes underlined the confluence between elite sports and couture, as exemplified by an hourglass jacket exhibiting the muscular system in blood-red beads and a bustier dress with beautifully pleated and tucked muslin. Thom Browne’s collection was more than just a showcase of sartorial prowess; it was also a reflection on the ongoing significance of human touch in an increasingly technologically driven world. His designs praised handcrafted creativity, reminding us of the beauty found in precise, manual creation. Browne’s couture display, the first medal ceremony of 2024, highlighted the link between athletic effort and couture accuracy, sending a striking message about the significance of workmanship as we move forward into the AI era.
