HAUTE COUTURE HAUTE COUTURE Spring/Summer 2024

Spiber’s Breakthrough: Yuima Nakazato Unveils the « UTAKATA » Collection at Haute Couture Week Spring – Summer 2024

Yuima Nakazato, a Japanese designer, showcased his Spring/Summer Haute Couture collection,
« UTAKATA, » during the prestigious Haute Couture Week in Paris, marking a watershed
moment in creativity and haute couture. The exhibition highlighted the innovative usage of
Spiber’s Brewed ProteinTM materials, a significant step towards sustainable fashion.
Nakazato’s avant-garde collection showcased eight beautiful ensembles, highlighting the
adaptability and potential of Brewed ProteinTM fibers. From jackets and skirts to blouses and
denim sets, each piece demonstrated the seamless blending of technology and creativity. The line
pioneered the use of Brewed ProteinTM fibers in denim, challenging traditional workmanship.
The revolutionary use of biosmocking technology boosted the collection by allowing Nakazato
to manipulate cloth with unprecedented accuracy and freedom. This digital manufacturing
technology allowed for the transformation of materials into elaborate, sculptural forms, blurring
the distinction between fashion and art.
At the center of « UTAKATA » is a conceptual examination of power, fragility, and the desire for
peace, as represented by the use of armor-printed silk organs. This mix of delicate silk and strong
armor exemplifies Nakazato’s sophisticated design style, in which aesthetics and deeper
philosophical themes are intertwined.
The runway show at the Palais de Tokyo wowed onlookers with its ethereal yet strong presence.
Male models dressed in layers of fabric, some draped in translucent scarves interlaced with
silvery armor, embodied Nakazato’s vision. The mix of light textures and structural pieces
created a visual extravaganza that captivated viewers.
Beyond fashion, Nakazato’s relationship with Spiber extends to the opera world, with custom
costumes developed for an upcoming performance of « Idomeneo » in Geneva. This
interdisciplinary approach demonstrates the designer’s dedication to pushing the envelope and
questioning conventions in both fashion and performance art.
« UTAKATA » represents not only a breakthrough in sustainable couture but also a new era of
technological and creative partnership. As Nakazato continues to push the boundaries of fashion,
his imaginative creations serve as a source of inspiration for the whole industry, reminding us of
the transformational power of creativity and imagination.

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